Scottley in B-town

Thanks to Ant's generosity, I've got a comfy place to crash here in Brisbane.

Left Noosa on Sunday, busted down to south Brisbane to pick up Dan Roe, a good climber guy who volunteered to take me out for the day to some projects he's been working on. We drove down an hour and a half south of Brisbane to Mt. Greville, near Frog Buttress. Dan's been putting up some first ascents on the blocky cliffsides around the waterfall gorge. First, we warmed up at "Little Springfield" on a grade 14 sport route. 14 is about a moderate 5.8 in the YDS. Not having climbed in a few months, I was a bit leery about busting off onto a lead straight out, but I got the onsight, no problem. After that, we toproped an 18 next to it.

Then, we hiked up the canyon to check out Dan's route. He's climbed it once since he and his buddy set it a year ago, but I was probably the next to climb it. "Lobster Boy and the Purple Krabs" is a fun two-pitch trad ramble up the cliff side. I lead both pitches, I would have put it at about 5.6. There's heaps of rock out here-- it amazes me that even in the year 2006, there's actually decent climbs still awaiting their first ascent. After we scrambled out in typical Karl-would-be-proud-bush-surfing fashion we took the long way back to Brisbane.

The countryside around here is really lovely. If you replaced the stands of gum trees with Oaks, you could claim it as California. On our way back, we stopped at a cafe in the tidy country town of Boonah, had a milkshake and enjoyed the evening air in the hills. A lovely day.

Since then, I've been getting my act together here at Ant's. Went out on the town for dinner on Monday night. Afterwards, Ant took me downtown to see the famous "Down Under Bar," but it was early and not too busy. Mostly a backpackers crowd that I've been with the whole trip thus far. Still, I could see how things would get crazy later in the week, later in the evening. If I needed to recruit some rail meat, that would be my first stop. After the DUB, we went over to the big casino where I watched Ant loose $11 on roulette and keno in five minutes, then we left. On the way back to the car, we stopped for dessert at an old school real cool restaurant called "Pancakes Pancakes!" It's inside an old church. Tasty chocolate pancakes.

Yesterday, I borrowed Ant's bike and took a trip around the river. Rode from Toowong up to Kangaroo Point. KP is a large rock cliff right on the river's edge, facing downtown Brisbane. It's lit up at night and is best described as an outdoor climbing gym. The locals are very privileged to have such a "facility" right in the middle of their fair city. Met Brett and Andrew, chatted with them while they worked on a grade 21 sport climb that looked fun. Got some good info about the local scene and rolled on. I biked across the Story Bridge, dodged rush-hour traffic in Fortitude Valley and rolled back on the north side of the river to Toowong and Ant's house under a pink-grapefruit sky.

Brisbane is giving me a good feeling. I'm going out exploring again today, but first I'm headed to the UQ acquatics center for a swim. Have to keep those surfing muscles in shape....

Oh, the latest set of pictures is now up and captioned.

Ocker Quiz #3

Ok, on to Round #3. Points awarded have tripled for this round, so get ready!

Question:

You're walking through a Queensland supermarket, let's say Coles. You're looking for a sign that says "Manchester". What are you looking to buy?

Anyone? Anyone?

Ocker Quiz #2 Answer

Ok, the trip to Canarvon shall be told in the smugmug gallery that I'm cooking up now. Give it another day or so.

Current situation is that I've been in fair Noosa for the past 4 days, surfing every morning. I finally found a surfboard that I'm going to buy first thing in the morning. It fits my swank rack perfectly. Pics of that to come, too.

So, the answer to:

Here in Queensland, what direction does the water swirl in as it drains from the toilet?

is: Trick question. Toilets in Queensland don't really work the way they do back in the US. Instead of a swirly design, the water just sorta barfs en masse into the bowl and dissapears in a quick gulp-- no swirling. One cool feature of local toilets is the two flush buttons. One gives a little half flush (when it's working properly and it seems that many of the toilets don't), suitable for removing any yellowness in the bowl. The other button gives a full-on, poo removing flush.

And so, despite the trick, we have several points to give out for this round:

• Rich, you earn one whole point for getting the closest. It is inherent in the design. Good on ya.

• Karl, you copied Rich's argument and also happen to be from Queensland, so you get zero points, considering you could have used your authority to make up something much more imaginative.

• Velma was also almost close and she's also recently engaged, so you get 0.5 points. Mazel tov!
  

• Gnuheller had the funniest response, from a nerdy perspective. Normally that would be worth a hearty 0.5 points as well. Considering that I don't know who the hell this chap is though, makes me nervous. Therefore, I give Mr./Ms./Thing gnuheller 0.6 points. Please don't hurt me.

Stay tuned. The next quiz is ready and will be released shortly. Please keep playing! No one really has any serious points yet, and the point value for future questions will surely increase-- so join in the fun!

Standings after round 2:

gnuheller 1.1
Dad 1
Rich 1
Velma 0.5
Karl 0

Yom Huledet Same'ach!

Hey everyone! Today is my Dad's Birthday. Every year, Mom beats him to it and this year is no different. She always seems to get her birthday in a few weeks before Dads...

So anyway, Dad. Happy Birthday. I had this great idea of getting some topless girls at the beach to hold up a sign for you and taking a picture of it and posting it to my blog. Unfortunately, it rained on my plan and the topless girls weren't out today. So instead, I offer you this greeting from two crazy German guys:

Dashed upon a foreign shore

Sorry for the big delay. I've been out of internet range for a few days and I haven't settled down here in Noosa long enough to get a breather to write.

Huh, the trip out from Airlie Beach was a week ago already, a lot's happenened. Left from Airlie and drove up into the scrubby highlands of the gemfields region. Lots of mining and ranching going on out there. Spent the night in Clermont, which a week later, I can barely remember it.

Rolled the next day to Carnarvon National Park, home of Carnarvon...

damn. Too tired to keep writing. I'll get back to this later. Time for a quick anouncement, dinner and then chilling out. Sorry folks.

Ballast Beauties, Inc.

Saturday night, back at the sailing club, Skipper Collin had invited me back for yesterday's race and I accepted. He was also lamenting that we didn't have enough weight on the boat to balance her out when she leaned over in the strong winds. So I suggested that not only could we easily get more weight, but we could do it in style.

So I went back to the hostel that night and asked the first three friendly and pretty girls if they would like a free sailboat ride the next day. Marie Helene, a Quebecois lass I had me the day before and had become friendly with and Tanya and Celia, two Norwegian gals who had just arrived were game and excited for the opportunity.

So it was with great pride that we went down to the dock at noon yesterday. The rest of the crew was quite happy to see that we now had the weight we needed to balance the boat and that the weight wore bikinis.

We all had a great time sailing the race, a simple 4 laps out and back from windward to leeward. The gals did great, hopping like jackrabbits under the boom as we tacked and clambering up the other rail to lean out for balance. On the downwind legs, I got to be the pole again as we got the most out of our jib by goosewinging it out opposite the mainsail. After the second lap, Jason and I managed to rig up a metal pole to do the same job with a lot less effort and chaos.

Collin and his senior crew sailed the boat great and we crossed the finish line very happy with our effort. The gals all had a great time and appreciated the unique opportunity to be in the middle of a rather exciting yacht race. Because each boat has a handicap, we wouldn't know the actual results until later that evening at the sailing club. So I dropped off Tanya and Celia, who wanted to go swimming at the lagoon and Marie and I went over to the club to meet the rest of the racers, have a drink and wait for the results.

My reputation preceded me, apparently how I wrangled up those beauties was becoming a popular story. After a while of schmoozing and drinking, they served a BBQ sausage snack and we all gathered around to hear the results of the race.

First they announced the results of the previous day, we came in 4th, which was great considering that we were expecting to finish 5th or 6th. Lochie and Felicity came in 1st in their division, and everyone cheered heartily for him and his crew.

Then the announced the results of Sunday's race, starting with last place. We waited as they announced each boat, each time hoping it wouldn't be us. We all got quite excited as one by one the names of our toughest competition were read off, leaving only us at the end. Sandpiper won first place! Big high-5s all over and everyone was very happy. The bonus was that this race was the last in a 4 week series and our victory had also secured Collin 3rd place in the series! Lochie had also cleaned up and taken first place in the race and the series. We were all smiles as we congratulated each other.

And so, after another beer and a drink from the rum bucket, it was a weird sad moment when I realized that I'd be leaving Airlie and this crowd behind in the morning. I've been here two weeks now and I was really starting to get into the flow of the town and the people. I can see how picking up and leaving all the time is going to get tiring. Collin and his crew were great guys and all offered me a berth the next time I come through. Lochie extended an open invitation on Felicity as well. Marie and I made our farewells and I took my leave of sailing in Airlie. For now.

After leaving the club, we were a bit tipsy and not in form to drive the 1 km back to the hostel, so Marie and I walked down to the lagoon for a moonlight swim. After getting the yayas out, we called it a night. I probably would have rather spent my last night in town partying, but instead, I asked Amand, my new Norwegian friend if he would put on some of is Norwegian electronic music like Rokksopp and I zoned out on the hammock for a while... then went to bed and was out by 10.

So now my tale of Airlie is done. I'm going to go grab a gyro from the shop across the street and head off towards Mackay and then Carnarvon National Park. I might not have net or phone service for a few days, so please don't panic if you don't hear from me. I'll probably crash in the town of Emerald tonight, I doubt I'll make it all the way to Carnarvon today. It's about 600km from here.

One more lap

The race today was quite a trip. Wind at 25 knots with gusts up to 35. Got a ride with Sandpiper and her Skipper/Owner Collin. We raced out to Hayman Island, about 11 miles, around the west side of Armot island and then back to Airlie Beach in a big triangle. It took 5.5 hours for us to complete the course, quite a long race. Collin said it was the strongest winds he's ever raced in, he was working the mainsheet and helm pretty hard. The weather varied from bright sunshine and fast planing to complete whiteout downpour in 4 foot rolling swells.

I spent most of my time as rail meat, helping to balance the boat as she leaned over. My duties also included spotting wind gusts coming at us and notifying the helmsman, I earned the nickname "Gus" from yelling "Gust!" so often. Downwind, my right arm got to be a mini-spinnaker pole as we goosewinged out the jib. That was quite comfortable, ahem.

When it was time to tack, I was down in the pit relasing the leeward winch and helping Jason tail the opposite winch as he took in the jib on the other side. I love winches. Wenches aren't too bad either, unfortunately we didn't have any of them aboard. We do need some extra weight for tomorrow's race, though, so I've promised Collin that I'll try to recruit some from the backpackers around town.

So yeah, there's another race tomorrow and Collin was more than happy to have me back on again. Can't quit now, so I'm staying one more night.

Can't type much more, I have to go fall on my face.

Ending not so Airlie

I think I'm leaving here on Sunday, first thing in the morning. Of course, I've been amending a plan to leave here since I arrived. . .

Last night, while sitting around the hostel, playing the nightly quiz, I found myself partnered with Matthew from Nantes. Mon ami et moi actuallament avons une victoire. Le prix et a half price offer from the folks at Ocean Rafting, a 1 day speedboat tour of the Whitsundays. This was perfect, since I had today to kill and hadn't actually managed to get out to see the reason for most other people coming here.

So Matthew and I booked for today and we left this morning. Being the low season, the boat only had about 10 out of a possible 25 passengers, so we had plenty of room and attention. These little boats have 450HP of outboard behind them and we were quickly and smoothly planing along at 25 knots. We stopped first at Nara Inlet on Hook Island for a short walk up to some simple Aboriginal cave paintings, followed by an hour of snorkling at Dumbell Island. The snorkling was great, it was the first time I've actually done it, I've always just scuba dived. Saw another giant turtle and I had great fun poking at the giant clams. Without the noise of the scuba gear, I could actually hear the many varieties of parrotfish biting chunks out of the coral.

After snorkling, we headed to the famed Whitehaven Beach for lunch. Whitehaven is one of the hallmarks of Whitsunday Island, a mile of perfectly white sand with the consistency of fine powder. It looks lovely in the brochures, but of course the brochures don't show the enormous tourboats that are also parked there disgorging a horde of tourists. The beach was lovely, but as I suspected, not the secluded paradise they might lead you to believe. Private boats can visit the northern shore of the beach which was empty-- part of the problem seems to be that all the commercial operators park down near the south side where the toilet facilities are.

After lunch, we swam around, played frisbee in the water and then packed up to head back. The island scenery on the south side of the Whitsunday group was a lot more rugged and interesting that the northern section. I would love to come back on my own some time and explore them. The sea back there was very choppy and our skipper entertained us by launching the boat off of the swells. By 4:30pm, we were back. I'm glad that I got to see the Islands this way. No muss, no fuss, no crazy drunk parties, just get out there, get a flavor and get back with a minimum of touristy schlock. One day, when I can skipper my own sailboat, maybe I'll come back and indulge.

Tomorrow, Lockie has promised to get me on as crew for the all day race around the northern Whitsundays. I have to call him tonight to see what he's cooked up. The forcast is calling for 20-30 knot winds over the day, so it should be pretty exciting. I hope Lochie comes through, I would love to get out for one full day sail before I leave Airlie.

Assuming I don't get any other offers to sail for next week, I'll head out on Sunday for Carnarvon Gorge NP. Karl has given me some good ideas for an overnight hike and the kit I need to do it. It seems that I have to stop in at Mackay to buy a hutchie.

Everyone, help a dude out!

And give a big "Happy Birthday" shout to my Mom, who I love very much.

Happy Birthday Mom. Wish I could be there to tell you in person. . . as a poor substitute, please accept instead my latest batch of photos, recently uploaded and commented just for you!

Back from the bush

Excerpted from the private diary of Scottley:

Mar 3, 2006 ~7:00PM
Jaxut Campground, Cathu National Forest

Jaxut - Cathu

Even the names are bizarre in this alien place. The wallabys are always watching me, they move with the thump sound of logs falling in succession like velvet covered bone dominoes. Starting a fire was a welcome chore, from gathering the fuel to getting it going on 1 match. It helped to take my mind off the bouts of sweat and heat that come quite often. I was feeling cooled off during and after dinner, but now I am dripping again, almost as if the humid air moves through the forest like a silent, stagnant wind- rolling waves of moisture thrown off by a deeper, damper section of forest. Most of the bugs have left me alone, is it all the garlic I've been eating?

The inchworms liked my food box, the blue Dairy Farmer's crate that I nicked in that town south of Mission Beach. Can't tell if the ants avoided the chilli flakes I put down; they seemed to but one was spotted carrying off a flake.

Footsteps. A shuffle just behind me. I think. I can feel it watching me but in the near dark gloom, I can't see it. Time to tend the fire.

* * *

Back, and no further sound from my visitor. In general, I'm pretty comfortable besides the sweat and stick on my skin, which along with my second complaint: the fact that the underside of my car is plastered in cow shit and smells the part, has me wondering about the quality of sleep I'll get. I feel like a wus [unintelligible] I'm also concerned about flies and spiders and mozzies and such in my sleep. Tending to the fire just now and two have already buzzed my ears.

* * *

(100 words omitted) I wonder if the temperature will drop much tonight. The fire has reached that wonderful point of silent glow burning that can last for hours. Remembering camping our with Dan & Tom at Indian Creek. I miss that. . . (18 words omitted)

* * *

More nearby footsteps. Going to try spotlighting it.

* * *

Possums! Not scared of me much, and don't seem to be threatening, either. Spotlighting worked perfectly. Quiet fuckers. I'm a bit afraid that they'll go for my trash bag-- one made it on top of the table before I shooed it away. Big hopping frogs, too.

Like living in a zoo, my wallabys, my ants, my spider, my possums, my frogs, my dingo, my grub, my fire, my bat who visits now and again. I make my rounds and check on them all.

The fire, the stars. The simple satisfying beauty, yet I can't drink it deep. The breath stops a bit too shallow. My mind starts to slip away into it, but just like that moment before you fall asleep, you look too close, think about it for just a second, and it's gone. It is possible to fall into the beauty or peace or happiness of a moment [like one falls into sleep]? Am I a ?spiritual? insomniac? (1 word omitted)

The almost certain feeling that there is more to this moment, close by, or visibly ghostly, tangible and yet there is no way to know how to grab it, to breathe deeply enough to fill yourself with it. (rest of entry omitted)

Ocker Quiz #2

Hands on your buzzers for the next question:

Here in Queensland, what direction does the water swirl in as it drains from the toilet?

Please leave your answer by clicking on the comment link below.

To play a pirate or to be a pirate

As any of my friends in SF will tell you, my SF friends really like pirates. It seems that SF in general really likes pirates (and not just the butt kind). Thanks to that piratephillic atmosphere, I too, have come to like pirates.

It is in that eyepatched spirit that I am remaining here in Airlie Beach to learn to sail. I have a long way to go, as the topics of plank building, booty burying and whoremongering still escape me. Nonetheless, I feel happy that I have taken the first step.

I found my instructor's card at the tourist info desk, and I was impressed by it's message. The rest of the sailing schools here in Airlie Beach are run by the tourist charters and spend as much time sightseeing as they do in education. Also, it is impossible to meet with the instruction staff, as you have to go through the tourist booking agents, who while very nice and pretty, don't know much about the actual course. Instead, the "Wind Skills Sailing School" card says this:

"Wind Skills is a Sail Training Centre. We do not include paying tourist passengers with students, nor do we visit popular tourist destinations as part of the course. Tourism combined with Sail Training downgrades valuable instruction time and reduces the certificate to having little worth.


Your choice is basically whether you want to learn how to sail and are serious about it or whether you wish to receive a certificate but never have the confidence to use it"

Serious instruction with a very healthy dose of anti-tourist snobbery? I love it. Awesome. I gave them a call.

On the line was "Lochie" who informed me that the "Sail Training Centre" was actually just him, and his "office" was actually his boat, docked at the Abel Point Marina, berth B14. I walked over there and knew I was in the right place. We chatted about the course and various logistics for about an hour. Based on talking to Lochie and other marina regulars, it became clear that the man is a local legend, both for his superb sailing skills and his beer-fueled good natured attitude.

The class doesn't start till Monday, so I've just been killing time here around Arilie Beach. Wednesday evening, Lochie invited me on board his boat, "Felicity," as a passenger for the twilight races. We sailed out into the harbor and met up with all the other local boats and had a great time racing around the triangle for a few hours. If you've never sailed before (like me), it's quite striking when the motor is turned off and the sails go up and suddenly you're moving, but quietly. A real pleasure.

After the races, we all went out to the Yacht Club and drank it up the the other skippers, crew and yachties. Lochie was starting my education early by giving me a lead on the social aspects of sailing, which, I've discovered, are paramount. Time on the boat is actually pretty chill as there's only work to be done when you change direction. The rest of the time is spent sipping a cold one and telling dirty jokes.

The real side benefit to all of this, as some of Lochie's former students have attested, is that with my "Competent Crew" certification from his course, any skipper would be happy to have me aboard as a volunteer to crew their boat (taking into account, of course, my enthusiasm and general affableness). After I get done with the class, for example, I can sign on as crew on one of the tourist boats and get a ride around the Whitsundays for free.

The rest of my time has been spent exploring the local area. Yesterday, I drove inland and spent the afternoon all alone at the picnic ground on the shore of massive Lake Proserpine, watching the birds and insects, reading and snacking and relaxing. Spent more energy than I though I would, I was blasted when I got back to town, checked into a new hostel (BBtB was full up), shared a beer with my roommate Johannes, ate dinner and was sleeping by 11.

This morning, I got up early, had brekky and visited the Queensland Parks office. Got a wilderness permit to drive around in the state forests west of here and I'm headed out there now to do some walking and camp for the night.

I just have to rememeber to buy a lighter before I go-- my pasta dinner will be a little crunchy if I don't.