Thursday, June 22, 2006

Big Yak Attack

Out of the Gobi and into the wooded grassy steppes. Amazing vastness everywhere, but it's good to have a hint of civilization here in Tsetserleng.

This is definitely the nicest town I've found in Mongolia so far, up in the hills with more trees than dust. If I were to settle here, it would be in Tsetserleng. Hmm, hard to write, I'm a bit shellshocked and a bit hyper from an overdose of caffiene. Lunch was at the only "western" style restaurant for hundreds of Kms, Fairfield, a charming cafe owned by an expat British couple. Cold Coca-Cola a real lattes lead to a bit of a binge. 7 days of rice filled dumplings, water and fermented mare's milk will do that to you...

Despite the jitters, I'm fine: happy and healthy and looking forward to the next leg. We arrive at Tsagaan Nuur (the Great White Lake) tomorrow. That's where I hope to hook up with the horsey dude to find out my equine destiny. I'm feeling confident that I'll be able to find a niche there for a little while. Probably no internet access, so you know the drill.

Yesterday we were invited into a family's ger to share in their homemade cheese and the national drink araig (pronounced air-ak). It's served by the bowlfull, with about the same alcohol content of beer. It tastes like sour alcoholic yoghurty liquid cheese. It tastes better than it sounds. While we entertained our guests with digital cameras and Jen's guitar playing, I downed a few bowls-- which was better than our driver who downed about five. After we left, and after about 20 minutes of sprited driving, he pulled over by an idyllic mountain stream and promptly lay down. We used that opportunity to make our lunch for the day.

Last night was solstice, we celebrated by buying a tasty bottle of $2 vodka and dowining it at sunset with another group of 4 dudes who were staying at the same guest house as us.

Time to set up the Mongol Quiz.

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